Catalog › Installation Guide: 2015- PRESENT HELLCAT, SCAT-PACK & SRT-8 EXHAUST KIT Installation Guide: 2015- PRESENT HELLCAT, SCAT-PACK & SRT-8 EXHAUST KIT

REMOVING STOCK EXHAUST SYSTEM:

1) Label the rear actuator valves D for driver`s side and P for passenger side. We send a return label box for these actuator valves for you to send them to us for rebuilding and reintegration with the Solo exhaust kit. These actuator valves must be put back on to ensure the engine light stays off.

2) With a sawzall or other cutting tool cut the valves as shown in the picture below, approximately 1 to 1.5 inches from the weld joint. When you are cutting these valves make sure to support the exhaust system in the front and rear. Also make sure to unclip the wiring harness to the actuator valves and take care not to drop the valves during the cutting process.

3) Remove the rear muffler assemblies from hangers. Squirting soapy water into the rubber hanger (Note: Soapy water does not hurt the rubber like WD40 could) will make removal easier. A large set of channel lock pliers to squeeze the hanger out of the rubber is recommended. Take care to not damage the exhaust tips during removal as they will need to be reused.

4) Undo factory front band clamps using 15mm socket. These band clamps are located at the rear of the converters just ahead of the factory x-pipe.

5) Carefully remove the large heavy mid-section.

6) The exhaust tips are held on with a rounded collar clamp at the ball and socket connection. Score the tack weld that holds the collar on and wiggle the tip back and forth to break the tip and the collar free. Set tips aside making sure to keep them on their proper sides for re-installation later.

7) The stock exhaust system is now disassembled and its time to put your new kit on!

INSTALLING YOUR NEW SOLO KIT:

NOTE: If you snug everything first instead of fully tightening, it will allow for movement and adjustments once the new system is on.
Snug, align, snug some more and then do your final tighten.

1) Install front Solo Performance front muffler (if you get the Street Race the X-Pipe) section. Slide/push on till it bottoms out. Do not tighten at this point.

2) Slide rear muffler hangers into the rubber stock exhaust hangers.

3) At this point the front section is loose and still has some manipulation room.

4) Install and finger tighten the two front band clamps that Solo Performance provided. DO NOT FULLY TIGHTEN THE CLAMPS.

5) Slide in the two Solo short pieces of pipe that go where the actuator valves are. Finger tighten the front flange.

6) Make sure there is clearances in the tunnel where the pipes go.

7) Install both tailpipe sections with J-Pipes by putting each side into the two rubber hangers. Do not tighten at this point.

8) Install the 4 Solo provided band clamps, position and evenly snug (do not tighten) the four front band clamps using a 9/16” socket. Snug the flange connection as well. At this point you want it snug but still loose enough to manipulate

SOLO clamps: Hold the top nut with a 9/16” wrench and lightly snug the
bottom bolt head with a 9/16 socket.
THIS FLAT BAND CLAMP WILL FORM AROUND EACH LAYER OF PIPE

9) Re-install the factory tips using the collared clamp. Snug the clamp at this point.

10) Swivel the j-pipe into perfect position and tighten bottom band clamp. The j-pipe will come completely bottomed out and the bottom band clamp snug. The top j-pipe adjustable end cap band clamp is tight at the “factory” setting.

11) Maneuver the system into perfect position and very slowly and evenly snug the bolts with 9/16” socket.

12) The tailpipe can pull left or right depending on how you tighten the bolts. Slow and even tightening eliminates pull. Having someone hold the tips in position is key. Tighten the front band clamps then the bolts that connect the tail pipes.

13) Put the actuator valves into the Solo provided return box. Upon its return we will rebuild the valves within 24 business hours so that they fit directly into the spot where the short pipe currently is. Once the rebuilt valves come back to you just loosen the flange joint and band clamp joint and reinstall the actuator valves making sure to re-hook the wiring harness up. Note: Passenger side valve has to be turned 180 degrees in order to hook it us as our pipe takes a different path than the original.

Note: You will get an engine light while driving without that actuator valves. This is only a warning and in no way will it hurt the car or performance. The light will go out once the actuator valves are re-installed. Turnaround time for the valves averages 5 days. Two days shipping to us, one day to rebuild and two days back to you.

Note: You can elect to weld the valves into the short Solo pipes yourself.

Adjusting J-PIPES

This should not need to be done on most cars but incase please follow

If you have an in town “bog” or trouble RPM ranges just undo the top band clamp of the J-Pipe and move in or out ½” . Determining which direction gives the best results and then do further adjustments in ¼” increments. Both J-pipes must be adjusted evenly

Note: The J-pipes come to you with band clamps on them. The lower band clamps (A) need to be loosened and the J-pipe swiveled into the cavity where the stock muffler was. The J’s are shipped resting on the tailpipe. This position is for shipping only. Once you install the system Clamp A must be loosened and the J-pipe turned away from the tailpipe into the muffler cavity. There is no correct position other than the J can’t be touching anything and it must have clearance from the floor.
Do not adjust any “length” from the Clamp A position.

The upper Clamp B is where you adjust the length if necessary. Most systems are good with the factory preset length but if you need to adjust for trouble RPM ranges you do it with the end cap slider at the Clamp B position.