Catalog › Installation Guide: V8 Challenger R/T 5.7L Hemi ( 2015-Present ) Installation Guide: V8 Challenger R/T 5.7L Hemi ( 2015-Present )

REMOVING STOCK EXHAUST SYSTEM:

1) Undo spring kit (By rear tire on drivers side) on drivers side using 13mm socket.

2) Remove drivers side muffler assembly from hangers. Squirting soapy water into the rubber hanger (Note: Soapy water does not hurt the rubber like WD40 could) will make removal easier. A large set of channel lock pliers to squeeze the hanger out of the rubber is recommended.

3) Undo factory front band clamps using 15mm socket. These band clamps are located at the rear of the converters and the start of the mid-pipe.

4) Carefully remove the large heavy mid-pipe and passenger side muffler assembly.

5) The stock exhaust system is now disassembled and its time to put your new kit on!

INSTALLING YOUR NEW SOLO KIT:

NOTE: If you snug everything first instead of fully tightening, it will allow for movement and adjustments once the new system is on.
Snug, align, snug some more and then do your final tighten.

1) Install front Solo Performance front muffler section. Slide/push on till it bottoms out. Do not tighten at this point.

2) Slide rear muffler hangers into the rubber stock exhaust hangers. The rubber hangers will be almost straight up and down.

3) At this point the front section is loose and still has some manipulation room.

4) Install and finger tighten the two front band clamps that Solo Performance provided. DO NOT FULLY TIGHTEN THE CLAMPS. The clamps go equal distance over each pipe.

5) Have someone hold the muffler section at the rear and twist if necessary to make sure the muffler is completely flat.

6) Make sure there is clearances in the tunnel where the pipes go.

7) Evenly snug (do not tighten) the four (4) front nuts of the band clamps using a 9/16” socket.

SOLO clamps: Hold the top nut with a 9/16” wrench and lightly snug the
bottom bolt head with a 9/16 socket. THIS FLAT BAND CLAMP WILL FORM AROUND EACH LAYER OF PIPE

8) Install both tailpipes by putting each side into the rubber hanger. Do not tighten at this point.

9) Install hardware to connect the tailpipe with the mid-pipe at the ball and socket joint. Finger tighten only!

10) Maneuver both tailpipe into perfect position and very slowly and evenly snug the bolts with 9/16” socket.

11) Re-install the factory tips using the collared clamp and Solo’s small tailpipe assembly. To get the collar clamp off your stock exhaust you may have to score or cut the tack welds and then bend it back and forth till it breaks off. Snug the clamp and joints at this point.

12) The tailpipe can pull left or right depending on how you tighten the bolts. Slow and even tightening eliminates pull. Having someone hold the tips in position is key. Tighten the front band clamps then the bolts that connect the tail pipes.

13) Tips are meant to be roughly 3/8” from the top and you should rock left or right for perfect positioning.

Note: The collar as well as the stock exhaust tips need to be used on this Solo kit. Rock the collar back and forth a few times to break the tack weld from the stock exhaust. Align the tip and tighten the collar slowly on each side to the Solo pipe. Patience and a good eye are needed to align the tips.

14) Lightly snug all band clamps and the bolts while someone with a good eye holds the tailpipes and exhaust tips in place.

15) Do a “medium” snug on all the same clamps and nuts.

16) Roll the J-Pipes toward the outside of the car, this is explained more below.

16) Do a “heavy” snug on all the same clamps and nuts while retaining the same perfect position.

17) The tailpipe can pull left or right depending on how you tighten the bolts. Slow and even tightening eliminates pull. Having someone hold the pipes and tips in position is key. Do a final tighten on all joints from the front to the back.

18) Make sure that you do a final tighten on all four J-pipe band clamps. They only come snug from Solo.

Note: Adjusting J-PIPES: This should not need to be done on most cars but incase please follow:

If you have an in town “bog” or a drone range just undo the top band clamp of the J-Pipe ( B ) and move longer ¾”. Test drive, in town and on the highway. If it is not perfect then pick a direction trom there and adjust in 3/8” increments. Test drive after each adjustment. If it sounds you’re getting close to the “sweet spot” but not quite there yet start to adjust in ¼” increments. If you try 5 or so positions longer than the factory setting with bad results then go back to the factory position and repeat this procedure going shorter. Be patient, small adjustments can make an incredible difference in the drone. Both J-pipes must be adjusted evenly. Note: there is no break in period for the J-Pipes, you’ll only need one test drive to know if your adjustment worked or not.

Picture below shown for reference only:

Note: The J-pipes come to you with band clamps on them. The lower band clamps (A) need to be loosened and the J-pipe swiveled into the cavity where the stock muffler was. The J’s are shipped resting on the tailpipe. This position is for shipping only. Once you install the system Clamp A must be loosened and the J-pipe turned away from the tailpipe into the muffler cavity. There is no correct position other than the J can’t be touching anything and it must have clearance from the floor.
Do not adjust any “length” from the Clamp A position.

The upper Clamp B is where you adjust the length if necessary. Most systems are good with the factory preset length but if you need to adjust for trouble RPM ranges you do it with the end cap slider at the Clamp B position.