Catalog › Installation Guide: V6 Charger/300 SXT ( 2015 – Present ) Installation Guide: V6 Charger/300 SXT ( 2015 – Present )

REMOVING STOCK EXHAUST SYSTEM:

1) Undo spring kit (By rear tire on driver’s side) on driver’s side using 13mm socket.

2) Remove driver’s side muffler assembly from hangers. Squirting soapy water into the rubber hanger (Note: Soapy water does not hurt the rubber like WD40 could) will make removal easier. A large set of channel lock pliers to squeeze the hanger out of the rubber is recommended.

3) Undo factory front band clamps using 15mm socket. These band clamps are located at the rear of the converters and the start of the mid-pipe.

4) Carefully remove the large heavy mid-pipe and passenger side muffler assembly.

5) The stock exhaust system is now disassembled and its time to put your new kit on!

INSTALLING YOUR NEW SOLO CHARGER/300 V6 EXHAUST KIT:

NOTE: If you snug everything first instead of fully tightening, it will allow for movement and adjustments once the new system is on.
Snug, align, snug some more and then do your final tighten.

1) Install the front Solo Performance H-pipe. Slide/push on till they bottom out. Do not tighten at this point.

2) Slide the mid muffler section onto the two front pipes and manipulate the rear muffler assembly hangers into the rubbers. Soapy water squirted into the rubbers may help with installation.

3) At this point the front section and mid-section are loose and still has some manipulation room.

4) Slide rear tailpipe hangers into the rubber (soapy water helps with penetration) and finger tighten the bolts that connect the tailpipes to the mid muffler section. The ball and flair joint helps with tailpipe alignment as you can maneuver the tip into its proper position. Swivel the J-Pipes outward towards the outside of the car so that they hang free and clear.

4) Install and finger tighten the two front and two rear band clamps that Solo Performance provided. DO NOT FULLY TIGHTEN THE CLAMPS.

5) Have someone hold the tailpipes in perfect position (so the exhaust gasses enter the bumper / tip area unobstructed) and as snug as much as you can tighten everything with your fingers.

6) Make sure there is clearances in the tunnel where the pipes go and make sure the tailpipes are properly centered.

7) Evenly snug (do not tighten), using a 9/16” socket, all band clamps and nuts. If you tighten one nut too much it can pull the exhaust out of position. Even tightening is essential.

SOLO clamps: Hold the top nut with a 9/16” wrench and lightly snug the
bottom bolt head with a 9/16 socket. THIS FLAT BAND CLAMP WILL FORM AROUND EACH LAYER OF PIPE

8) Lightly snug all band clamps and the bolts on the tailpipes while someone with a good eye holds the tailpipes in place.

9) Do a “medium” snug on all the same clamps and nuts.

10) Do a “heavy” snug on all the same clamps and nuts while retaining the same perfect position.

11) The tailpipe can pull left or right depending on how you tighten the bolts. Slow and even tightening eliminates pull. Having someone hold the pipes in position is key. Do a final tighten the front band clamps then the bolts that connect the tail pipes.

12) Make sure that you do a final tighten on all four J-pipe band clamps. They only come snug from Solo.

Note: Adjusting J-PIPES: This should not need to be done on most cars but incase please follow

If you have an in town “bog” or trouble RPM ranges just undo the top band clamp of the J-Pipe and move in or out ½”. Determining which direction gives the best results and then do further adjustments in ¼” increments. Both J-pipes must be adjusted evenly. Test each new position both in town and on the highway. It can take some time to get the exact “sweet spot” on the J-pipes if they need adjustment. The time is worth it because once you find it you will enjoy the results every time you drive your car. You will not ever need to adjust them again.

NOTE: Below picture used for reference only.

Note: The J-pipes come to you with band clamps on them. The lower band clamps (A) need to be loosened and the J-pipe swiveled into the cavity where the stock muffler was. The J’s are shipped resting on the tailpipe. This position is for shipping only. Once you install the system Clamp A must be loosened and the J-pipe turned away from the tailpipe into the muffler cavity. There is no correct position other than the J can’t be touching anything and it must have clearance from the floor.
Do not adjust any “length” from the Clamp A position.

The upper Clamp B is where you adjust the length if necessary. Most systems are good with the factory preset length but if you need to adjust for trouble RPM ranges you do it with the end cap slider at the Clamp B position.